Sabatini Highlights

Sabatini recently released their Sabatini White Autumn/Winter 2012 collection at NZ Fashion Week. The whole collection seemed to be tied by the use of detailed texture, pleather and translucent materials, and featured almost solely black, burgundy, and gold. They also had my favourite hair and make-up from fashion week - love the perfect skin, defined brows, and dark lip colour. My favourite is still the perfect red dress, but these were my other highlights:

I love the structure and formality of the jacket and collar paired with the simplicity of the black dress underneath, and the short hemline. Possibly the most wearable outfit of the collection (other than the amazing red beauty of course), though I'd probably pair it with coloured or black pumps rather than these toe-less boot type things.

I like the colours and texture of the dress, but dislike how the tights appear to cut off at an odd place. Perhaps paired with a different shoe rather than nude it wouldn't appear to cut off so suddenly. (Though I think I actually like the nude shoe individually)

Another amazing textured jacket and short hemline. Translucent dresses in ready-to-wear collections somewhat baffle me however. How do you wear this? I feel like if you put it over a singlet dress it would defeat the purpose of the piece. Gorgeous on the runway though. (And also beautiful shoes)

Awesome colours and print. Unsure if I'm sold on the pleather fringing on the hem though. And I dislike these cut out boots again.

The reappearance of the beautiful shoes and an amazing colour combination of the light purple dress and burgundy and purple jacket. I'd question the wear-ability of the textured jacket if it wasn't so well paired with the dress. Love the neckline and detailing on the dress too. I'd probably buy this complete look from head to toe.

Stunning colours and more translucent dresses. The jacket is amazing - reminds me of the ladies from Advanced Style. I really like the dress too but wish they'd suggest how to wear it without showing my undies. Also those cut-out shoes again, but I really like them with this look. That much burgundy probably can't be paired with anything but a nude shoe.

Natalie Chan Highlights

Natalie Chan (my favourite NZ designer) had her first showcase at NZ Fashion Week this year and presented a new line of Race Day Dresswear and Millinery. You can view the whole collection here.

These were my highlights:

"Fifth Avenue" Silk Dress and "Elite Fille" Silk Black Fascinator. I think Natalie's strength lies in her colour choices which are always unfailingly feminine. This dress is simple but I adore the organge tones and the translucent sleeves.

"La Prima Ballerina" Silk and Tulle Dress and "Courted Countess" Couture Hat. I'm not so big on the way the hat covers the model's face but that's probably a styling issue rather than a design issue. I love the uniformed colour, the pale tone of pink, and the textured hemline of the dress.

"La Dolce Vita" Derby Day Silk Dress and "My Fair Lady" Black Silk Headpiece. I love this purely for the headwear. If you're going to go for headpieces - go for size.

"Champs-Elysees" Silk & Beaded Dress and "Golden Girl" Headpiece. This isn't something I'd usually like but the colour combo of turquoise and gold is really striking. I especially love how the gold headband, belt, and hemline structure the look.

Also, how nice is it to see models smiling on the catwalk? I also really like that this is a ready-to-wear collection. It's such a nice change of pace during fashion week to see wearable, affordable collections (and a break from the pouts). You can find Natalie Chan's store and details here.

In Portrait

More snippets of the last wonderful 12 months. In portrait. (See In Landscape here)

Numbers 2, 5, 10, 15, 24 (of myself) all copyright Sarah Kate Photography. Numbers 19 and 21 (Red Riding Hood and White Dress portraits of myself) copyright Jessie Rolton Photography. All other photos by me (or my boy) on my Canon EOS.

Materialism

Designer: Sabatini. Images: Michael Ng.

I've been re-visiting my love of fashion blogs lately and as a consequence have been coveting the heck out of this piece from Sabatini's 'Sabatini White' Autumn/Winter 2012 collection. Whenever I trawl a fashion blog, buy a copy of Vogue, or covet a particular item of clothing however, I am inevitably plagued by two problems.

Firstly, I question why women do this to themselves? Why covet clothing that is realistically far beyond our budget? It seems ridiculous to taunt yourself with things you will most likely never have. But to me that's not the point. I very rarely actually set out to acquire a particular piece I see in a magazine or blog (the above dress being an exception). Rather I find inspiration in the colours, patterns, cuts, layering, colour combinations, accessories, and hair and make-up ideas I find on the catwalk and on street-style blogs.

Secondly, it leads me to question my own tendencies towards consumerism and materialism. I am an educated young woman with an arts degree and an interest in theatre, film, art, gender politics, punk music, and history. I also love fashion, wear make-up everyday, and collect teacups, old hardcover books, and vintage advertisements. Every single interest I have is an indication of something that makes me happy and/or has helped to shape who I am. It doesn't matter that some of them contradict the others. Over time I have learnt to never let something you love inhibit you from doing or exploring another interest. For instance I love punk music but I don't have to let it stop me wearing high-heels, or let it mean that I have to dress like I've just found out that the 70's happened and I'm really really excited about it.

But at times I feel like my obsessions with vintage, florals, and clothing "let my side down." I wear high heels and lace to university which leads to, aside from the many disapproving looks and comments regarding my inappropriate walking shoes, the occasional expression of surprise or disbelief when I display some sign of intelligence in a tutorial or lecture. Somehow society assumes that being intelligent and interested in sociology/politics/history/etc. isn't congruent with a keen interest in style, make-up, and fashion. But why should I have to choose?

Last night I told my partner that I wanted to see the new Twilight movie when it comes out. He hadn't realised I was interested in them and asked why I liked them, expressing surprise that I could be an avid festival and art film fan but still like Twilight. I found it difficult to answer. I likened it to an interest in tabloid magazines or celebrity culture - something used to pass the time/indulge in as a guilty pleasure/be amused by/mock/express disdain over.

But that's not necessarily true. I know it's awful. But I like it. I'm not an obsessive 16 year old girl. I think much of the acting is awful and that a teenager should not look like Taylor Lautner (heavy muscles on a fifteen year old are fairly creepy). But I like the cinematography (especially of the first film), and the silliness of the situation. I like the romance and giggling like a 14 year old when someone makes an overly dramatic pledge of love and protection. Should I have to apologise for that?

Should my interest in sociological issues and Lars von trier films mean that I can't like fashion and teacups and want to see the new Twilight film? I don't think so. I like what I like, and I don't think I have to justify that. So if someone wants to buy me the spectacular red dress from Sabatini, I'll say thank you and wear it regardless of whether I'm in drama class, an Anthropology lecture, or my Japanese History tutorial.

Rookie

Tavi of Style Rookie has just launched a new online alternative magazine for teen girls called Rookie Mag. I'm 21 and am hence not really the target audience, but that doesn't matter - what does matter is that it's incredible. It's refreshingly honest and it's so nice to see a magazine for teenagers that promotes a love of film, books, and music, above dieting and ridiculous flirting advice. It's also so nice to see articles that promote love and respect for other women.

I also enjoy the fact that the magazine has feminist undertones and an obvious penchant for 90s pop culture, punk and alternative music, and vintage and D.I.Y clothing. It's also nice that it treats it's readers like creative, intelligent young adults as opposed to the braindead unwashed. Though I did get offended when guest writer Dan Savage assumed that the largely American teenagers reading the magazine would actually need to google the Columbine shootings. Seriously, they're American. And they're not that young. Luckily, the actual regular writers seem to respect their readers and some of what they're offering is beautiful.

I particularly loved an article called 'Higher Learning: Remembrances of the first year of high school, and advice for getting through your own, from some of our favourite grown-ups.'

There are some amazing sections from so many awesome people including Zooey Deschanel, and Alia Shawkat - go read the whole thing. But I loved this one in particular, from writer Lesley Arfin featuring some ridiculously realistic advice:

"Dear Kid in High School,

Not that you really give a shit what I have to say, cuz kids in high school love not giving a shit, but I also know that you actually give a huge steaming pile of shit, so shut up your face and listen.

You’re allowed to care about stuff. That’s the first thing. Even if you think it’s stupid or weird, like polka music or “being obsessed with mimes.” One day you will look back not at all the things that made you cool enough to fit in, but the things that didn’t. And you will love them.

The second thing is write everything down. Even if you don’t like writing, just write about every obsession, story, hatred, happiness—whatever. And save it. All of it. I say this because when you’re an adult, you will get drunk with your friends one night and read your diary out loud to them.

It will be the funniest night of your life.

When teachers say, “This is the best time of your life,” they are wrong. They are only saying that because they’re teachers and they have to look at your weird faces every day. There is no “best time of your life,” but rather perfect moments, like when someone’s gum falls out of their mouth while they’re telling a story, or when a jerk is walking toward you and accidentally gets hit in the head with a soccer ball. Make sure to store these moments in a safe place in your brain. They will be useful to you in the future, I promise.

But also, quit bitching about being in high school. At least your mom still makes you dinner at night, and that rules.

I’m not gonna say don’t do drugs because that’s ridiculous, just don’t take anything that is known as an “epidemic” (crystal meth, Oxycontin). When they tell you in health that they’re addictive, they’re not “just trying to scare you into being a normie,” and it’s not all “government propaganda.”

Stick with pot, acid and booze and you will have way better memories. When you do acid or shrooms and you think you might be having a bad trip, get a piece of candy and hold your friend’s hand and it will go away. Try not talking for a while, too. If it’s still bad, well, whatever, it will be over in 14 hours.

If you want to stay out all night, say you’re sleeping at a friend’s house.
If you come home super early and your mom says, “Why are you home so early?” you say, “I got homesick and I missed you.” She will then make you eggs and you can watch TV.

If you don’t want to change for gym a good trick is putting sweatpants on over your jeans. If you don’t want to go swimming say you have your period. If you want to go home early or get out of a class, give the nurse a general “my stomach hurts.” If she asks you, “How does it hurt?” you say, “It’s just pain.” There’s no cure for that.

You might feel at times that you are ugly and disgusting and unlovable. Some of you might feel as though you are beautiful and hot and cool and awesome. Know this: When you’re in your 20s you go through, like, a time machine of opposite days. What I mean is, everyone who thinks they are hot shit in high school eventually turns into cold diarrhea by their 30s. And all you ugly nerds will eventually start to sparkle like geodes. If you don’t believe me you can ask Facebook.

Hmm, what else what else? Some things I regret: not learning an instrument (I gave up playing the sax, wish I hadn’t), not learning a foreign language (got kicked out of Spanish), not taking more acid (was afraid of bad trips but regret now due to lack of funny stories).

I don’t know what else. You guys are gonna do whatever you’re gonna do, fuck that up, do it again, and so it goes.

You all probably know just what you’re doing anyway and don’t need any advice at all, isn’t that right, you little smartass?

I’ll be watching you. I am the eyes and ears of this institution."

Advanced Style

Ari Seth Cohen is the author of the incredible blog Advanced Style.

Strange how I find the most inspiration not from regular street style blogs or runway stills but rather from the incredible older women featured on his blog.

Vintage inspiration, red lippy, hats and scarfs, gloves, coats, gold jewellery, classic designers, and pure class. I love women who know how to dress like women.

All photos by Cohen at Advanced Style.

In Landscape

September. It marks a good time for me to look back over the beautiful, life-changing year that has passed. These are a few snippets. In landscape.

Numbers 4 and 20 (of me in the woods) taken by Lauren Hahn. Number 17 (of me holding a gun) is a screen-cap from a short film I acted in for NZ Film Academy. All other photos taken by myself (and a few by my boy) on my Canon EOS.